Travelling Around Bali
Touch Down in Bali
It was early September, the European summer was just coming to a close for another year. Adding this trip would make this summer feel endless.
As with almost all international tourists travelling into Bali, our flight landed in Denpasar. It’s a long flight from Germany to Bali. We were full of anticipation of everything which lay ahead of us. This meant that the long flight did go *relatively* quickly. It is long though, bring snacks!
This was our very first trip to Asia and during our stop in Singapore, we started talking about what we wanted from the trip. The main thing we wanted was to see and experience something completely new. We had travelled a lot and we had heard a lot of wonderful things about this little island, we could not wait to get there.
Simply the trip from the airport to where we were staying in Sanur opened our eyes and gave us our first taste of the stark, bright and distinct culture of this island. We saw the various Hindu monuments across the city from the window of the car. We saw an island that despite its touristic elements appears to be anchored in tradition.
We were lucky enough to have a flight connection which ensured we arrived late in the afternoon. To make the most of our first evening in Sanur, we explored a little despite the tiredness and jet lag and took a slow walk around the buzzing area. We mean buzzing very literally. The sound of any Balinese town is unmistakably the sound of the small petrol bikes on which the locals are whizzing around: kids, livestock, home furnishings all on precariously balanced along with the driver of the petrol bike.
We found ourselves almost immediately eating delicious local cuisine very cheaply in a type of restaurant known as a Warung. These establishments are often simple restaurant-style eateries.
Opening Our Eyes to Bali
Our first morning in Sanur was a blissful and relaxed time. We did a little exploring around the coastline of the area. We were still adjusting to the time difference, so a relaxed day was exactly what we needed. When the tide went out, we were able to walk across to little islands.
Decorating these islands were small, open buildings, completely inaccessible at high tide.
This combination of beautiful surroundings and sunshine provided the perfect rest bite before the adventure that followed. We sat by the beach and sipped coconut water straight from the coconut shell. In these surroundings, it must be almost impossible to stop that carefree feeling from washing over your body.
Let the Adventure Begin
Our first place of interest was the Puseh Tempel in Batubulan. The local people were extremely welcoming in inviting tourists to watch the traditional Barong dance.
This passionate dance tells the story of the fight between good and evil.
Famous across Bali and Indonesia, this dance is a fascinating sight. It was completely unlike anything we had ever experienced on our travels. The dance is accompanied by music played on traditional instruments. It truly is a sight to behold. The costumes, the sharp sound of the music and the dramatics make this a real cultural awakening.
Of course, no trip to Bali would be complete without visiting the wonderful and drastically scenic Tanah Lot Temple. Tanah Lot sits directly on the coast, with the crashing waves as a backdrop. This temple rests proudly at the heart of Balinese mythology.
The temple was restored to its former glory in 1980. It has become a popular spot for budding photographers. There is something very special about the powerful waves that surround this temple. The sheer force of the waves crashing against the rocks is an incredible sight.
Whilst there, we found the best trick is to arrive exactly at opening time or later in the evening. That way you also get to see the sunrise or sunset.
The Spectacle of a UNESCO World Heritage Site
We travelled along to the rice terraces upon a recommendation from other tourists. We travelled to Jatiluwih where we first saw these magnificent fields. The rice is still harvested using many of the original methods which add a further element of beauty and traditionalism to these terraces. Walking along you will spot local people clad in the traditional conical hats collecting rice.
The rice terraces at Jatiluwih are a UNESCO world heritage site and they are truthfully one of the most remarkable things which we saw in Bali. There is something about the enormity of what you are looking at. Not just in the physical stature, but at the notion that something so beautiful and scenic could have a vital agricultural purpose.
At this point, it is probably worth mentioning that although they may look beautiful; attempt to walk across these fields without a trusted local and you will find yourself slowly sinking deeper and deeper in the mud until your favourite adventure shoes have disappeared entirely. Our advice? Go with a guide or tread very carefully!
The Most Expensive Coffee in the World
The world-famous Luwak Coffee originates from Indonesia. As part of our trip, we were excited to visit a site that creates this Kopi Luwak for a coffee and tea tasting and to see their wonderful surroundings. Luwak Coffee is made up of partially digested coffee cherries that have passed through a creature called an Asian palm civet. Although perhaps not to everybody’s taste this experience was a highly interesting one. This coffee is famously the most expensive coffee in the world if nothing else it was fascinating to see how this coffee is farmed and from where this famous taste originates. The plantation also provided a lovely afternoon of beautiful views and scenic walks. We did not see any of these sweet, coffee bean munching, animals but we did see the way in which the coffee beans were cleaned, ground and prepared.
The plantation was already on high ground and the higher we got, the more we felt the change in weather. We travelled yet further up into the mountains for our next hotel- The Strawberry Hill hotel in Bedugul. This hotel was absolutely lovely. We had our own sweet little cabin with a beautiful view of the surroundings. The site itself is impeccably maintained and wonderfully green.
After this wonderful nights rest cosied up in a sweet wooden lodge up in the chill of the mountains, we went on to visit the Ulun Danu Beratan Temple. This temple is vast. The location of this temple next to a peaceful lake gives the temple a wonderful, spiritual feel.
Filled with varied images of animals and exotic plants this temple provides a wonderful sight for tourists as well as being a Hindu Shaivite Shiva temple. We really could have spent days there, there were so many beautiful aspects hidden in corners or in caves. The gardens were beautifully maintained, our guide was also very keen to point out each and every sculpture or animal forms in the plants.
This temple and its surroundings are clearly of great cultural importance for the Balinese people.
We have mentioned a little about the Warungs and the cuisines you will find within them, but another wonderful aspect of Balinese cuisine is the huge variety of fresh and exotic fruits which can be found upon the island. These fruits were just so delicious, there is definitely something about being in a busy local market eating the local produce in any country which makes you feel part of the whole experience. We tried locally grown passion fruits, mangos, dragonfruits and jack fruits, all of which were utterly delicious.
These simple things can sometimes give you what appears to be the most realistic insight into the lives of the local people.
Trecking Through the Rainforest
Tripping and stumbling through the Indonesian rainforest as our guide nonchalantly gestured to the various plants on the forest floor and either side of us which could kill us. Rather terrifying. Walking down the steep ledges found in the jungle, we found ourselves laughing at each, precarious step we took.
To feel the rainforest around you teeming with life was however something special. After hours of trekking, checking for poisonous plants and trekking some more, we eventually reached a break in the forest. There, right at the centre of the jungle was the most beautifully maintained small temple. The small buildings were covered in beautiful flowers and offerings, created by hand. Noticing how much care the local people of this island take of their wonderful religious buildings despite the unforgiving surroundings, took us back.
To exit the jungle area and… in all honestly to avoid having to climb up steep ledges of poisonous plants, we were able to take a canoe along a huge stretch of water known as the Tamblingan lake. Our canoe trip led us straight to the Hulun Danu Tamblingan temple. What a trip! We had experienced a truly stunning area of natural beauty and long preserved tradition.
Lovina
Of course, travelling does bring its challenges. We had some inner conflict after our time in our next destination of Lovina.
Lovina itself is a beautiful destination. After we arrived at this beautiful place, the two of us sat and watched the sunset over the waves. Moments like these emphasise the importance of travelling. For us, travelling is about experiencing nature. How often do we sit out at home and watch the sunset? Yet, that is exactly what we did, watching the pale blue of the sky merge into a sea of deep red, we relaxed and awaited the next morning.
The next morning came, all too early, a 5:30 start for a dolphin-spotting tour. Seeing the sunrise whilst jetting out on our small traditional Balinese fishing boat was wonderful, however, we began to notice something disturbing.
We were far from the only tourists up at the crack of dawn to spot dolphins that morning. There were hundreds of these small boats each with a petrol motor, determined to spot these beautiful creatures for tourists. We found ourselves surrounded by other boats, chasing the dolphins and tracking them as they dived back under the water.
Of course, these dolphins were not harmed but for us, we began to notice the pressure of tourism on these beautiful traditional places. Of course, tourism is a very important element of everyday life in these countries, it provides an important income for these people. However, for us, the realities of over-tourism and the importance of travelling in a sustainable and considered manner became abundantly clear.
These spots are utterly beautiful and there is nothing wrong with visiting these places and taking a boat trip, but the mass of tourism which we witnessed on this trip is seemingly very unsustainable and causing a strain on the beautiful wildlife.
Chasing Waterfalls
On a more positive note, chasing waterfalls? Definitely an important part of any trip to Bali. Although quite the walk, the Sekumpul waterfall was a remarkable experience for us. The waterfall and those surrounding it truly were a paradise. Truly wonderful for swimming and cooling off after a long hot morning. These waterfalls were scenic and those hidden waterfalls close to the Sekumpul were completely secluded. Together we relaxed under the cool water with total privacy.
The Elephant Cave Temple
It was at this point which we travelled away from our accommodation in Lovina and approximately two hours south towards Ubud. It was here that we witnessed preparations for the prestigious festival which takes places each year at the Raya Goa Gajah Temple also known as the Elephant Cave in Bedulu.
This temple is deeply historical. There is mention of the elephant cave as far back as the 11th century. After this we headed over to the Goa Lawah, this was just wonderful. At this temple, we saw the huge colony of bats which give the temple its name. These temples were a wonderful cultural visit and to watch as the local people created beautiful works of arts and crafts for the festival was a real pleasure.
We followed this morning by a visit to a small local village called Dauh Takud. This quaint village remained true to local traditions and the people there were kind enough to show us their workshops and homes. It was here that we were able to see and purchase homemade items made of silks and dried palm leaves. We could even sit and watch as our names were carved into artwork created and personalised for us to take home with us.
Island Hopping to Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida
The following two days were filled with adventure and wonder at the natural beauty of Bali and the nearby Island of Nusa Lembongan. During this time we travelled around on a motorcycle and discovered the paradise that is White Sand Beach, with almost no crowds, beautiful restaurants and crystal clear waters, this beach was the perfect destination for holiday relaxation and swimming. Following this, we caught a boat taxi over to the Island of Nusa Lembongan from Sanur. We visited the Dream Beach, and headed to Devil’s Tear, it was there that we witnessed the most beautiful sunset. The calming scene contrasted sharply with the powerful immense waves crashing against the cliffs in front of us.
Perhaps one of the most iconic and yet lesser-known aspects of any trip to this area of the world is a trip to the island of Nusa Penida. This island was a paradise for photographers.
The immense natural beauty of the cliff formations and wildlife of this island provide it with everything needed for beautiful imagery. We visited the main sights there include the famous Peluang Cliff, Kelingking Beach and Angel’s Billabong. This trip was truly remarkable. The natural formations and sights which we witnessed will remain with us for the rest of our lives.
Climbing Up the Mount Batur
This island-hopping had left us utterly exhilarated. We could not get enough of what we had seen. This meant that as soon as we returned back to Bali, we signed up for yet more adventure in the form of the Volcano Batur. We awoke at 2 am to climb this active volcano with a very impressive height of 1,717 meters. At the beginning of the hike, it was completely dark, we had only small head torches to guide us, one foot in front of the other. It was very dry and dusty walking up this mountain despite the morning chill, but as we got higher and higher, we began to look out and see exactly why this trip had been worth waking up so early for. The views were truly spectacular. After an exciting trek to the summit, we watched the sunrise over the surrounding volcanoes and ate locally grown bananas for breakfast. This was truly an amazing start to the day.
Discovering Ubud
Following this wonderful, yet truthfully quite exhausting start to the day, we decided to take some time to relax. We got a traditional Balinese massage and then we walked into Ubud from our accommodation.
Ubud itself is a vibrant town with an authentic mix of modernity and traditionalism. There are dozens of small markets selling beautiful homemade items, such as jewellery and trinkets as well as food markets with fresh fruits and tasty locally made food.
In addition to these more traditional sights, there is also a backpacker theme to the town. There are many alternative places to eat and drink, including many vegan restaurants and cocktail bars. Ubud feels wonderfully cultured and is a stones throw for many of the most beautiful rice terraces and temples in Bali.
In Ubud, we simply wandered the streets breathing in the smells and fragrances experienced around the small markets and restaurants and yet despite the simplicity of our visit, this remains something we both fondly remember as a highlight of our trip
The Uluwatu Temple
The final temple which we visited on our trip to Bali was possibly our favourite.
We travelled from our accommodation in Seminyak to Uluwatu Temple. This temple sits proudly on a cliff and has breathtaking views of the sea.
However, we had a nice miss with a few of the resident monkeys. They look sweet but can be very aggressive and have a great tendency to steal anything shiny from tourists.
We watched helplessly as a woman had her Ray-Bans stolen by a monkey. After some rather impressive persuasion on her part with a bottle of water, she managed to get her sunglasses back, but not before the monkey threw them to the floor- let this be a warning to any tourists.
Despite this, we found ourselves utterly enchanted by the Uluwatu temple, especially following the most amazing traditional performance of the Kecak Dance, as we sat on the floor in awe and watched the performers creating the music and shapes. The dance accompanied by the fire was an utterly iconic Balinese experience.
The Beginning of the End
Our final days in Bali were spent taking in the beauty of our surroundings and enjoying the ultimate Bali holiday experience.
Emily attended a yoga class lead by a local man, focused on the relaxation and the power of nature in the morning. Then we spent a full day at the beach, learning how to surf those tropical waves. What a delight!
Final Thoughts of Bali
Bali and its surrounding islands are utterly wonderful. The positivity and creativity of the local people continue to make this area a cultured and enlightened place.
The natural beauty is outstanding. The nature in Bali is unlike anything we had ever experienced in Europe. We felt completely safe during our time in Bali, of course, there are pickpockets around, but we were lucky enough to have had no problems at all with crime during our stay.
The cuisine of the island was delicious. We loved eating the beautifully spiced fish, and Nasi and Bami Goreng as well as all the additional sweet treats on offer on this wonderful island. You can find our Favourite Treats of Bali here.
Our best advice would be to consciously research excursions, boat trips, in particular, to find companies who are actively looking to promote sustainable practices. Overall, our Balinese experience was even more vibrant than we could have ever imagined. The culture of this island is utterly overwhelming. The care and love that the local people show to their beautiful religious buildings and monuments truly make any visit an absolute pleasure.
